Which advantages and disadvantages are there to a solid wooden floor?

A solid wooden floor consists of the same tree sort all the way through the board and will almost never be worn out. A solid wooden floor can be sanded many times. A solid wooden floor is a nature product, which means that the is “alive”. When the air humidity rises or drops out of the ordinary (35 to 65 %) you should be prepared for the boards being able to contract and expand. This reaction can leave behind small or large shrinkage cracks between the boards or form the so-called washboard effect.

Can a solid floor be mounted on a floating base (not directly fastened to the base under-construction)?

We do not recommend that you lay a solid plank floor on underfloor heating. There is a large risk for the planks to expand/contract in connection with the heating season. There is also a large risk that the boards will crack in the middle. Most problems related to solid wooden floors arise when laid on underfloor heating. 

What is the difference between glued-down and floating floor laying?

Floating floor laying is the most common way to lay a wooden floor, because it is fast and easy. A glued-down floors in return has many advantages. A glued-down instillation means that the wooden floor is glued directly on top of the firm underfloor (concrete/chipboards). This gives a whole other reverberation and therefore reflects much better acoustics.

Advantages to a glued-down floor:

  • Better acoustics in the room. (feels more solid)
  • The floor can be laid as one solid piece e.g. through doorways
  • Leaves out breechblocks in doorways and aluminium rails with tiles
  • Opportunity to joint in coincidence of transitioning from tiles perhaps
  • More stable
  • Better thermal conductance with 
  • Mount kitchen and place heavy furniture directly on the floor
  • Does not need base mounting. Elastic joints along side of the wall is enough
Can a solid floor be laid in connection with floor heating?

We do not recommend that you lay a solid plank floor on underfloor heating. There is a large risk of the boards expanding/contracting in connection with the heating season. There is also a large risk that the boards will crack in the middle. Most problems related to solid wooden floors arise when laid on underfloor heating. 

What is a 10-board measurement?

To make sure that the floor has room to expand as expected to in very humid periods, the 10-board measurement should be applied when the floor is installed. The widths of 10 combined boards are measured and extra space is added, which gives the floor space to expand over time. This measurement should be provided by the manufacturer, and varies depending on the width of the boards. For example, if 20 cm boards are to be installed, 10 boards should have 2007 mm space. 

I have a distance of 50-90 cm between the beams. What should the thickness of the boards be in order to ensure that the floor would lay stable?

If the distance between the beams is 50 cm, we recommend choosing 20-22 mm thick hardwood wood boards. Although, the floor should be even thicker if the wood comes from a soft treesort such as pinewood, spruce-fir, or Douglas. Is the distance between the beams larger, the boards should be at least 30 mm.

Should I choose an oiled or vanished surface?

There are advantages and disadvantages with both surfaces. Vanished floors cannot be treated or repaired partially, which is a disadvantage. Another disadvantage is that vanished floors will develop toil and scratches faster in areas with more traffic, such as hallways, kitchen areas, and entrances. Many also find vanished floors artificial looking. An advantage of a vanished surface is that it demands very little maintenance, the first couple of years. We recommend to use a hard wax oil, which is both durable and demands less maintenance long term. Oiled floors should be maintained every year, part from hard-wax oiled floors, which should be maintained just every other or third year. The surface can easily be freshened up and repaired partially. We recommend choosing hard wax, which is naturally hardened. It also has the most benefits.

Which tree sort should I choose?

Tree sorts are usually split up depending on their hardness: hardwood, softwood, and exotic wood. Exotic tree sorts are usually hard, but unfortunately rarely from viable forestry i.e. that they rarely are correctly certified. Hardwood tree sorts, as we know from here in Europe, are typically oak, ash, rubina and beech. Softwood tree sorts are typically pine, spruce and Douglas, which all are about twice as soft as for instance European oak or ash. We recommend choosing a wooden floor produced from hardwood tree sorts. 

Will trækompagniet treat and maintain for me?

Trækompagniet offers to maintain your floor. We will come out and treat your floor whenever you wish, and we can continuously come out and treat the floor when needed. It is very important to treat your floor correctly from the start. Trækompagniet has its own series of maintenance products, which we guarantee will keep your floor nice and neat for a long time to come. (See in our web shop)

Will I be provided with a guarantee for my Trækompagniet wooden floor?

Trækompagniet takes all complaints seriously. Obviously we completely want to avoid any complaints, but if our luck runs out, we are 100% backed up from our manufacturers. It is a critical parameter and something that should be included in the consideration process of investing in a new wooden floor. Besides the guarantees from the manufacturers, Trækompagniet also has its own team of parquet joiners, who can repair and adjust most inflicted damages to the wooden floor. Because of the high quality control of our wooden floors we get on average 80% less complaints than others in the industry. 

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